Cycling News & Blog Articles

Stay up-to-date on cycling news, products, and trends from around the world.

Charlie's Piolet is ready for the CDT

by Igor

Charlie was ready to upgrade his current bike for one more suitable for doing the Continental Divide Trail (when it's finally safe for travel) as well as handling commuting duty through the winter of Michigan. After a great discussion about his needs we settled on a very nice build featuring wide, floaty tires, low gearing, handlebars with lots of grip options, and a very neutral and comfortable fit. This is one very fun and smooth ride that will be his new training and adventuring buddy.

Off the bat, Charlie knew he wanted to use Crazy Bars. They feature a bunch of different hand positions so he can switch it up as the terrain and ride requires. We outfitted the bars with Foam Grips and Comfy Cotton bar tape. There are so many different ways people have wrapped them, so check out this blog post for different pictures and styles of wrap-jobs.


Tommy from Cutlass Velo in Baltimore handled the excellent wheel build. The hubs are our own Disc Front and Rear and the rims are 32 hole Velocity Duallys. Getting a hand-built, custom wheelset is more spendy from the get-go, but make for a very good investment in the long term. Every part of the wheel experiences various loads, so a wheel builder can choose the correct components for longevity and strength. Touch base with Tommy if you're looking for your next custom wheel build - he's a rockstar.

The drive is a mix of SRAM GX mountain bike components for the shifty bits and Shimano XT for the whirly bits. They're all super dependable and hearty. So they'll be able to take whatever Charlie and the trail throws at them.








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VO's 2020 Year in Review and a Peek into 2021!

by Igor

2020 has been one heck of a rollercoaster and honestly, too much to cover in this little year-end report. We all know what's going on, we're living it. But through it all, the bicycle industry has seen an explosion of ridership, a real silver-lining to an otherwise tough year. Whether someone is refurbishing an older bike for themselves or a family member, building up a new VO frame from scratch, or just working on that quarantine-project, our year has been extremely busy providing the goods to get people riding. And with that, I need to give a huge thank you to the entire VO staff. They have been absolutely amazing getting your orders out, receiving shipments, and providing top-notch customer service.

And they deserve a break. So, VO HQ is going to be closed starting Thursday, December 24th, and will re-open Monday, January 4th in 2021.

Behind the scenes, we've also been hard at work designing, prototyping, testing, and releasing lots of products. Here's a quick review of 2020!

New Hub Lineup








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Shawn's Rail-Trail Explorer

by Igor

The Great Alleghany Passage and C&O Canal rail trails are great gems of our area. If this is your first time hearing about these trails, the Great Alleghany Passage (GAP) goes from Pittsburgh, PA to Cumberland, MD and the C&O Canal continues from Cumberland to Washington DC. The combination of 0 (read: zero) car traffic, low elevation change, cute trail towns, and free camping, and ample water sources makes this trail combo world renowned. People come from all over the globe (in normal times) to ride this route combination of nearly 333 miles. And since these trails are basically in our backyard, we've ridden them a lot.

So while the trails can be ridden on most wide-tired bikes, having a bike built up with the knowledge of what the trail entails and what the rider needs, means that the bike can disappear and one can simply enjoy being in the moment - surrounded by the beautiful scenery that the Mid-Atlantic has to offer.

That brings us to Shawn's Low Kicker Polyvalent build. He lives nearby to the trail and was ready to upgrade his current ride to a bike with dedicated front and rear racks, wider tires, upright position, fenders, and a timeless aesthetic. After a few conversations, we settled on a build list and went to work getting everything fitted. This is one ultra smooth and comfortable ride.

Let's talk cockpit. Trekking Bars are one of those love 'em or hate 'em sort of selections. Shawn liked them for their upright position and multiple hand positions. They're super popular in Europe for that reason, too!













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Holiday Gifts for the Discerning Cyclist

Stumped on finding the perfect gift for the cycling enthusiast in your life? We can't blame you--we're a difficult bunch. As cyclists, it's fair to say even when we know exactly what we need we can still spend hours splitting hairs over color, dimensions, weight, and compatibility. Understanding that dilemma, we have compiled a list of pain-free picks to please even the most particular bicycle connoisseur this holiday season. 

Runwell Tools

One of the latest additions to our catalog, Runwell Tools is a small shop dedicated to the production of high-quality hand tools, bike accessories, and lifestyle items. We're talking "made in Japan's historic Tsubame-Sanjo manufacturing district" quality. 


A multi-wrench is one such tool that nearly any cyclist could appreciate, and Runwell offers several options. The 4 & 5 mm Wrench with Belt Clip or 4 & 5 mm Wrench with Cord are both portable tools that can tackle a majority of the bolts on a modern bicycle build. If that special cyclist in your life rides a fixie, a shiny new 15 mm Wrench might be just what they have always wanted. 

Runwell applies the same craftsmanship to a few gift ideas you just won't find anywhere else. Anyone who appreciates a well-designed tool will find the 10 mm Wrench and Bottle Opener, tool-inspired Stir Sticks, or Charcuterie Picks a welcome addition to their bar cart.  











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Piolets Get New Paint, More Low Kickers, and a Bunch of New Accessories

by Igor

We just received a shipment of Piolets with fresh, deep metallic blue paint. They look absolutely stunning. 


The only difference between these and the previous model is the paint and downtube decals. Everything else is the same.

We have a few very different builds lined up already and I can't wait to see them buttoned up. I think they're a nice, timeless color that will work well with both silver and black components and accessories.


We also got more Low Kicker framesets in both Small and Medium. These sold out very fast during the pre-sale, so if you missed out, here's your opportunity.

A bunch of new parts and accessories greeted us on the container as well!

Cargo Bike Fender Sets

Most notably are these very cool, 60mm wide Stainless Steel fender sets for cargo bikes. So for those of you that have cargo bike conversions, these are what you want.

The rear fender is sized for either 26"x2.3 or 650bx47mm, and the front is sized for up to 20"x2.3. You're going to want to consult your frame/fork manufacturer to confirm whether these will fit your bike.

Available in polished Stainless Steel only.






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From Russia with love

By Konstantin Simakin

Today we have a guest post from one of our Russian dealers, Konstantin Simakin of Planetarki in St. Petersburg. Konstantin has been a great supporter of our products in Russia for many years. This is his story of how he came into creating his own version of a mini-velo based on our Neutrino frameset.

The way to mini-velo is different for everyone. Some might get a mini-velo for the aesthetics of its design, or maybe their home has little room to store a full-size bike. I came to mini-velo via a folding bike.

It all started in the summer of 2018 when I first bought a Brompton bike. Brompton is a pretty expensive, but awesome English folding bike. It has wheels with a diameter of only 16 inches, folds down to an incredibly compact size, and has a very wide functionality - especially in the city.

In addition to the ultra compact folding, it has fast acceleration, sharp steering, and compactness when maneuvering in the city - these are qualities of the mini-velo I fell in love with and could no longer imagined city riding without it. Also, I could not have imagined riding in the city without this stunning front bag that holds all the things I need during the day. As for the folding function, no matter how practical it is, it greatly affects the rigidity of the frame and I did not like it, so I immediately began to think about the non-folding mini-velo.

At the end of the summer of 2019, I became the owner of an elite English mini-velo called the Moulton TSR 22 - this is a rather serious bike located in the middle of their lineup. Everything would be fine, but there is always a but!

For the company that sells Moultons, I had to make a comparative video review of two Moulton TSR 22 models and the top Moulton NS Speed, which cost more than $ 20,000. During the filming of the video review, I rode a lot on the Moulton NS Speed, and it turned out to be just an amazing ride. The suspension performance there was fantastic. After growing accustomed to the NS Speed, I simply could not ride my Moulton TSR 22 as the suspension and other characteristics in it were not the same quality. In addition, it was not possible to install a quick-detachable front bag like that on the Brompton. This was another reason why I decided to get rid of Moulton. There were thoughts of a complete redesign of the TSR 22, but it was a complete bike, rather than a bare frame, and there would be considerable amout of work that would be required because of the suspension. In the end, I decided to sell the bike as it did not really fit my needs.

All this time, when I was having fun with my Brompton and Moulton, I looked at Velo Orange  Neutrino mini-velo, but for some reason, I did not take it seriously. In the photographs, the bike seemed somehow awkward and heavy to me. Then I had not yet held his frame in my hands and could not imagine how cool it really would be.

By the fall of 2019, when such unexpected disappointments in the elite British bicycle technology overtook me, I clearly understood that I could no longer live a normal life without a mini-velo. Which mini-velo do you think I chose next? Of course it was Velo Orange Neutrino Mini-Velo! Since it was a bare frame, I immediately told myself that this time the game would be by my rules!


At the end of autumn 2019, I was holding a brand new Velo Orange Neutrino Mini-Velo frame in my hands and was amazed at how light and cool it was. The first thing that attracted me to it was the sliding dropouts. I have long wanted to try the German Rohloff internal hub and of course, this project was the best fit for this precisely because of the sliding dropout design.


The Rohloff was not supposed to be the only highlight of this project. I wanted to transfer to this frame my favorite Brompton front bag with its convenient quick release lock. To do this, I had to joint the bag's base to the head tube to install their quick lock, which means the frame would need to be repainted.


I was able to successfully join the base for the front bag lock. The place for the bracket was chosen so that the headlight (powered by the front dynamo hub of the SON28) could fit between the front wheel and the bag. Then, I layed down the VO orange paint to the frame. I asked my friend, the artist pinstriper Graffix, to hand-paint the inscription VELO-ORANGE on the down tube and the inscription NEUTRINO on the top tube with a brush, as well as draw a micro-metropolis after the word Neutrino. He did an excellent job. 


Naturally, I chose a bright orange color, which was painted in the most successful bike in my opinion, the Velo-Orange - Pass Hunter Disc. The only bike Velo Orange made that combined elements of the first classic Velo Orange frames and modern trends, but has since been discontinued! Now we need to narrow down some component choices.

I am also very grateful to Scott from Velo Orange for helping me get the strong, 20" Velocity Cliffhanger Rims.


We have a company in Russia that makes high-quality crank sets, this company is called Neutrino Components. I really love their products. So it was easy to select a crankset from them! So, plunging into this amazingly balanced concept, I started working on this bike.


It turned out to be a very tough and aggressive bike, so I chose the black Fairweather B903 Bullmoose Bar. I have long legs, so I had to find an extra long seatpost from a Cannondale Hooligan. After much work, my new Velo Orange Neutrino mini-velo was ready.


The Velo Orange Neutrino mini-velo is the most amazing mini-velo I have ever had. It has a very rigid frame, excellent acceleration dynamics, sharp steering, and good maneuverability. I can say with confidence that it works better than the elite English Mini-Velo. It combines the aggression and power of a BMX, the dynamics and performance of a modern road bike, and the practicality and utility of a city bike. Moving around the city on this bike, I get the thrill of jumping off high obstacles, its wide tires pass through soft grass and mud. Now I don't have to look for roads in the city, but choose directions and go wherever I want. At the same time, thanks to the rigidity of the frame, each of my trips on it is a serious training that improves my condition as a cyclist. When a few years ago, Neutrino mini-velo just appeared, I could not imagine that the time would come and that it would surpass and replace English 
brands for me, but it was so. 


A small spoiler for the next part - I didn't like Rohloff as much as I though. I am an aggressive cyclist, and this thing is for those who are not in a hurry. Now, as I write these lines, there is no Rohloff on my Neutrino mini-velo. Rather, the next incarnation of my Neutrino mini-velo is a drop bar, SRAM 1x11 gravel transmission, and a lot of carbon. But that's a completely different story for next time...











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Thanksgiving Holiday Closure


The Velo Orange showroom, office, and warehouse will be closed Thursday, November 26, and Friday, November 27, for the Thanksgiving holiday. Orders placed during that period will begin being fulfilled and shipped starting next Monday,  November 30. Regular customer support hours will resume on Monday, as well. We wish everyone a happy and safe holiday!

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Runwell Tools are Made in Japan

by Igor

We are pleased to be an official importer of Runwell Tools! Since 2011, Runwell has making absolutely top-notch bicycle tools and lifestyle gear, all in Japan.

I stumbled across Runwell during a doomscrolling session on Instagram when my finger was stopped in its tracks thanks to this post by Parallel Handbuilt in the Netherlands. And since then, we've been working on getting their product into the USA.

Hammered Top Cap

These threadless headset top caps are part of a collaboration between Runwell Tools and master copperware craftsman, Mr. Kazuya Watanabe. They are exquisite and quite literally works of functional art.

15mm Wrench

Look, we've all used cheap tools. That's what they are. They're cheap, disposable, not terribly well made, but they usually get the job done. Hopefully you don't round a nut off.













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Wheels, wheels, wheels and Tapered Headsets

We just posted some new complete wheel builds using our new hub designs!

Disc Rear laced to Voyager RimsDisc Front laced to Voyager RimsRear Cassette laced to Enterprise RimsFront Hub laced to Enterprise Rims - note that the 27" variant still has the older Grand Cru logo'ing

The disc variants include quick release and thru-axle endcaps, so the are flexible in their applications. They're all built in the USA using double-butted spokes.

We also got new, tapered headsets! They're designed for bikes that use 1 1/8" upper to 1 1/2" lower  external cup (EC) like the Pass Hunter. They're available in Mirror, Silver, and Noir.




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Taking Time to Vote and an Update on Recent Orders

Here at Velo Orange we believe every vote should be heard and that one of the easiest ways to increase voter engagement is to remove the barriers that might otherwise prevent people from casting a ballot. With this in mind, we will be closed November 3rd for Election Day to allow our employees time to head to the polls. 

This is also a friendly reminder that if you have not already mailed in a ballot or participated in early voting, tomorrow is the day to cast a vote for the causes you believe in and the representatives that support them. While you no doubt are well aware of the national issues this election will decide, as cyclists it is important to take a good look at the leaders and policies represented in your state and local elections, as these could have an impact on the future of cycling in your community. Infrastructure changes, traffic laws, and the emphasis on inclusive transportation could all be at stake. We hope you take this opportunity to make your voice heard.

Shipment Delays for Recent Orders

Last week we received a huge restock of many popular products. The influx of newly back-in-stock items was met with eager demand, so we have been dealing with a larger order volume than is typical. This has led to longer lead times than usual as we catch up in the warehouse. We are working through orders as quickly as possible. Those with orders placed last week should begin to see shipment notifications within the next few days. As always, if you have any questions please do not hesitate to reach out. We are quite literally overwhelmed by your support and appreciate your patience!

Pass Hunters, Piolets and More

October's restock was long awaited, but this month will be bringing even more. In late November the next generation of Pass Hunters will arrive. We'll have pre-orders covered plus more frames available for those that missed out on reserving one early. Along with the Pass Hunter framesets, we'll be receiving another restock of parts and accessories to fill the shelves just in time for the holidays. 

In mid-to-late November we will also receive a second shipment with another run of small and medium Polyvalent Low Kickers. Both sizes sold out quickly, so be sure to sign up for a product alert to be notified as soon as they become available again. 

Along with the Low Kickers will come a new batch of Piolet framesets. These Piolets will be the same as the current generation with a new dark metallic blue finish. We've also got a few new and updated products coming in this shipment, including 26" fenders in Noir, Happy Stems in Noir, stainless steel cargo bike fender sets, and "shorty" threadless stems in lengths down to 40 mm. Keep an eye out for more details throughout the month.

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Polyvalent Low Kicker and More Fall Arrivals at VO

by Kevin


The Polyvalent Low Kicker has landed. After many, many months of design, development, and testing, we are beyond stoked for the arrival of the latest addition to the Velo Orange lineup. The Low Kicker is a major update to our Polyvalent platform that introduces a low-slung top tube for easy riding while retaining a "do-it-all" design ready to tackle everything from paved commuting to gravel touring. 

We will begin to fill pre-orders in the coming days. For those that missed out on the pre-order, the Low Kicker is now available for order direct from our online store.

And the Low Kicker didn't come alone. As the weather cools down and the days grow shorter, a new shipment of Velo Orange essentials has arrived just in time for your fall and winter bike projects. 

Crazy Bars are back in stock in silver and black. We've received no shortage of questions about when more would be in. A close second, however, is the Klunker Bar, and we're not here to disappoint. Klunkers in their noir finish have also been restocked. We've also received more Left Bank handlebars in 22.2 mm and 23.8 mm sizes as well as Granola Bars in silver and black. 



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Kevin's Gravel Packer Pass Hunter

by Kevin


As we near the launch of the new Pass Hunter, we have received a number of questions from customers interested in racks and bags to pair with the frame. We envision the Pass Hunter as an ideal "sport touring" bike, well-suited for a spirited weekend jaunt unencumbered by heavily loaded front and rear panniers. Pushing the concept a bit further, I wanted to see how the frame could perform as a pseudo-bikpacking rig. With a weekend gravel tour as the test, I dreamed up my minimalist gravelpacking (is this a thing or did I just make that up?) setup.


I primarily am a road cyclist, and so my original Pass Hunter build was designed around Shimano's Ultegra R8000 drivetrain and a set of 700c wheels with TRP Spyre brakes. I went with the widest Ultegra cassette offered and paired with our compact Drillium crank. I wanted a build geared for road climbing--this is a Pass Hunter, after all. And that noir Drillium crank just looks sweet, doesn't it? (The crank is on sale now, by the way).


For bars I went with our Nouveau Randonneur drops mounted to our Tall Stack stem. A 0 Setback Seatpost and Brooks C15 saddle round out the cockpit. The Cambium saddles can be a bit divisive, but I've had mine for years and tend to swap it around between my touring setups. Our noir Moderniste bottle cages complete the black and blue look, with a gold seat collar and brass stem cap (a close enough color match) providing a dab of glitz. 


When preparing the bike for gravelpacking, I swapped out the 700c wheels for a set of Shimano GRX 650b wheels. These were ready to go with a set of Teravail Rampart tires (tubeless) in 47 mm. For me, this was a major jump from the 32 mm max I am used to. I've never claimed to be down with the #supplelife, but I have to admit the supple lifers might be onto something. 



For luggage, I wanted to keep things simple and compact. I reached out to our friends at Roadrunner Bags and settled on their Jumbo Jammer handlebar bag and Fred saddle bag. This proved to be just enough space for a three-day tour, with room for my camping gear, a change of clothes, snacks, and some other miscellaneous gear. If needed, a frame bag or some fork-mounted cargo cages could easily expand carrying capacity.


After a weekend in the mountain backcountry (read my ride report here), I at times found the road groupset to be a bit outmatched. A gravel-centric 1x system might ultimately be the only change I'd make for a similar tour in the future. Otherwise, I was quite pleased. I don't see myself going back to a rack and pannier system anytime soon. Check out the complete build list under our Bike Build Ideas page.









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Sampling the Rockstar Challenge

by Kevin

I first heard of the Rockstar Challenge a couple months back. A fall bicycle tour was in order, and after one too many rides on the C&O Canal Towpath it seemed a new route was called for. My good friend and touring partner Lee Cumberland was finishing prep for the Shenandoah 100 mountain bike race and caught wind of the Rockstar ride from others in that circle. 

A brief history: the Rockstar Challenge began as a trail ride catering to the hardcore mountain biking enthusiasts of the Shenandoah and Roanoke Valleys in western Virginia. It’s part bikepacking route, part all-out race that ties together some of the more challenging MTB trails in the area as it cuts a path from Harrisonburg, once known as Rocktown, to Roanoke, ending at the Mill Mountain Star. Rocktown to the star - Rockstar. You get it. 

The mountain bike trail is notoriously grueling, and in the years since it was first mapped both gravel and road options have been routed. I long ago decided mountain biking wasn’t for me, but I figured it was time I give the gravel life a go. The gravel route sounded like a good opportunity to form a proper opinion on the fad that has swept the industry over the past few years. It was also a great chance to push the capabilities of the new Pass Hunter frameset as a lightly-loaded touring steed. 

I swapped out the 700c wheels and 32 mm tires I had on the Pass Hunter for a set of 650b Shimano GRX wheels with 47 mm tires. I outfitted the bike with a couple of bags from our friends at Roadrunner. I went with the Jumbo Jammer and Fred Saddle Bag, two styles not offered as part of our VO luggage line. I packed in my camping hammock and quilts, a change of clothes, enough food to last a day or so, and water. We also brought a Sawyer filter to pull fresh water from the mountain streams we’d cross. The route does a good job of meeting up with towns and services when possible, but it is largely a backcountry ride with limited access and poor cell phone service. With proper planning of distance and timing, you could probably get away with relying on restock points along the way. 







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Building a Parts Bin Roadie

by Igor

I picked up this 1984 Trek 760 frameset more than a year back with no particular build idea in sight. It's a very cool frame and fork spec, and in my size! The frame is made from Reynolds 531c (c is for 'competition') tubing and has a 531 fork. It's very lightweight and great for a noodle-bike project.

Original listing picture

I first thought to build it up with all vintage components like Mavic hubs, Simplex shifters, and matching derailleurs. Then I thought to do a 650b conversion. But in order to get the rear tire to fit, I'd have to crimp the rear chainstays. This tubing is pretty thin, so crimping might actually crack the stays. So, that plan went out the window.

The frame sat on my shelf some more until we got final pre-production samples of the new hubs. Tommy from Cutlass Velo built up a wheelset using a 130mm Rear Cassette Hub and a Front Hub, both laced to Enterprise Rims. Now I have a rolling 700c chassis.


Now, the keenest observers might realize that this frame is spaced for 126mm, freewheel hubs. I've done a whole bunch of these 126mm -> 130mm conversions for both myself and customers back in the day. There are two options to make this conversion work: 1) you can cold set the frame to 130mm by expanding the dropouts using some 2x4s and bolts and nuts or 2) simply pull the dropouts open 4mm and shove the hub in. I chose the latter. I've done it this way for years without consequence.

Now what to do about components....













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Keeping the Wheels Spinning - New Hubs and Fall Project Update

by Igor

New Hubs




We received a mountain of new disc and rim brake hubs on Friday. They feature designs we've been working on for a long time and they're finally here! In Polished Silver and Smooth Noir finishes, no less!

The new Rear Disc Hubs are now convertible between 12mm, 142mm Thru-Axle and 135mm QR. This is accomplished using endcaps that don't require any tools to swap. Additionally, these new hubs retain our tool-free cassette removal for maintenance and drive-side spoke repairs.

For the rim brake Rear Hub variant, you can also swap endcaps for 130mm and 135mm. You do need to take a bit more care building this rear hub because the non-drive-side endcap is the one that adds or subtracts 5mm of spacing. So you'll likely need to re-dish the wheel if you move it between 130mm and 135mm spaced frames.




Up front, we have more swap-ability with our Front Disc Hub. It includes endcaps for QR, 12mm (thruaxle), and 15mm (thruaxle) - all 100mm spacing. 




We keep it easy for the rim brake Front Hub. Just QR. 




They all features high-quality sealed cartridge bearings and tool-free dissassembly. Additionally, we are now offering three freehub body options: Shimano 11sp (HG), Campagnolo 11sp, and SRAM XDR. The last one is the Sram spline that allows you to use a 10-tooth cassette - very popular with MTB and touring bikes and allows you to have just that little extra top-end gear range with a 1x drivetrain.

When you buy the rear hub, let us know which Freehub Body Spline you want and we'll make it so. It default ships with Shimano HG, so if you don't put it in the comments or email us otherwise, that'll be what you get.

Medium-ish Bag Re-stock


We also got a bunch of VOxRRB luggage back in stock including:
Randonneur Handlebar BagDay Tripper Saddle BagTransporteur Bag
We also got some extra Shoulder Straps. They are nice, simple, and lightweight and can be mounted on nearly anything that has a loop. So you can use it on non VOxRRB bags, cameras, water bottles, etc...

Projects Worth Noting and Happenings

Polyvalent Low Kickers are aboard the boat and are still planned to reach us by mid/late October. The first run of Small sizes sold out pretty quickly, but we have another small round arriving about a month after.

We're getting Diamond Polyvalents around January. They'll be the exact color and geo as the Low Kicker, but with a horizontal top tube (albeit with a couple degrees of slope). 

More Neutrinos are also planned for January/February. They'll be in the Pistachio Green color and will be dropper post compatible. Everything else is the same. 

More Piolets are slated for delivery around November/December. They'll be the same geo and specifications, and will be wearing a spiffy dark metallic blue paint with reflective VeloORANGE downtube decal.

We're also getting Cargo Bike Fenders for bikes with 26" or 650b rear wheels and 20inch front wheels. Both widths will be 58mm and they'll be made out of stainless steel. We went back and forth about stainless vs aluminum alloy, but settled on stainless. Stainless steel is tougher and more dent resistant than aluminum alloy. It's heavier, but let's be real here. If you're riding a cargo bike, the weight of your fenders shouldn't be a main concern in overall bike weight.

More Crazy Bars will be here in October as well. We sold out of the last production run in under 3 hours. It was not a small amount either. Probably the most we've ever gotten in one go. So the moral of the story is that if you're interested in getting them, sign up for the product alert. You'll get an automated email when they are put back into stock.

We're getting a shipment of parts and accessories in mid/late October. And then another in December or maybe late November depending on the dock timeline. And then another in January, and another in February. Needless to say, this season has been absolutely nuts!






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Fall Rituals

By Scott

Now that Labor Day has passed, meteorological fall has begun. The pumpkin beers and spiced lattes are in store now or awaiting pick up at your local coffee shop, and even in a year where nothing seems to be familiar, I'm hopeful that fall will be more normal than the past 6 months have been.

I've lived in the mid Atlantic for over 10 years now and one of the wonderful things is that there are truly four seasons here. Fall here is one of the great times of year, with the temps (and humidity) taking a bit of a dive, the colors of the leaves coming out and the chance to wear a sweater outside again!

I find myself having rituals related to the change of the season, especially when it comes to outdoor activities like cycling.  I've always loved the fall Coffeeneuring challenge - you can see previous posts here and here. Over the years, Mary has adapted the rules with help from the large number of riders who have taken part in the challenge. I like the rule that allows riders to use an outdoor spot for the challenge. This year, with social/physical distancing rules in place in most areas, I think a lot more folks will be doing this. We sell a lot of the Soto coffee filter holders, which work great if you're the kind of rider that wants to do coffee outside from scratch.

I also pull out my bikepacking bike this time of year. This year, I've been riding the Pass Hunter Prototype, both on road and on gravel paths of Montgomery County, but with fall's arrival, I might actually get out and camp overnight a bit. I'm not the greatest for camping in the summer here - the heat and humidity are not my friends - so the cooler weather is better for camping out along the C & O or some of the state parks in MD. I don't go to the extreme's that Igor's assessment post has folks go to, but it is a good time to double check the gear and brake cables, the tubes (yep, luddite there) and the chain are all good and ready to go. I don't really worry about tires, as mine are super chunky MTB tires, so a quick check of the side wall to make sure there are no cuts there is about all I do.





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Trekking Bars - The Original Alt-Bar

*this is a re-publishing of a post from November, 2017. We have updated some links, photos, and dates.

By Scott

It's hard to believe that it has been nearly 7 years since we launched the Crazy Bar. In a world of drop bars and flat bars, the Crazy Bar was polarizing. But, we'd be remiss if we didn't dig back further into the realm of alternative bars to an original one - the Daija Trekking Bar.


Sometimes referred to as Trekking Bars, Butterfly Bars, or Pretzel Bars, I remember seeing these bars on bikes ridden by an older Austrian couple in New Zealand back in 2001. The bars fit well with the front and rear panniers, rack top bags, and trailer they were each pulling around the south island of New Zealand.

Compared to flat bars, Trekking Bars offer more hand positions. You can use the sides to rock up a hill, you can stretch out forwards in a headwind, or keep your hands close to the brakes and shifters.


In terms of set up, there seem to be two camps. You either have the open end of the bars face towards you or away from you. A search of photos on the net shows more people run them with the opening towards the rider, thus keeping the brake levers and shifters close to you. Go ahead, do the Google search, we can wait.

OK, so now that you have seen the myriad of cockpits out there, you can see how this bar is the ultimate in individualizing a handle bar. I've never seen flat bars or drop bars get built up with such a personalized feeling about them. In the photo above, we put tape along the sides, but you could easily use another set of grips there as well for more cushioning.


For those of you who are now intrigued by these, some basic spec's. The clamp area is a 25.4 mm, standard for flat bars. The straight section where your main grips, shifters and brake levers would fit is a 22.2 mm clamp area and is 15 cm long. They work best with a 25.4 mm threadless stem, as trying to get a quill stem around all those curves could prove to be a nightmare. If you had a quill stem with a removable faceplate, that would work as well (wink, wink, nudge, nudge).

( Photo taken by Endlessvelolove )

So how many folks out there are fans of alt bars and how many just want a flat bar with a bit of curve/bend to it?





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Triples are Great, Change My Mind

By Scott

Recently, I've seen an upward trend in sales of Triple Cranksets here at VO. I've talked to more than a few folks on the phone and online about getting their bike set up with a triple system. It's an interesting trend considering that the wider bike world seems to be moving folks onto 1x systems for road and touring bikes.

Three rings, no waiting

I've been a touring cyclist for all my life (OK, I had one summer when I was a teenager when I tried racing, but we all have that one-time deviation from our true love) and for all of it, I've used a triple. Part of it is related to the fact that I started touring by modifying a mountain bike. I took off the heavy mtb knobby tires and put on slicks or semi slick tires. Threw on a rack or used our early 90's versions of frame bags and seat bags to carry stuff along the Oregon coast, around Tasmania or through the wilds of Sweden. I rode primarily in the middle ring (usually a 34-36 tooth ring) and then when the hills went up, you dropped it down into the inner ring (a tried and true 24 tooth, sometimes made of exotic stainless steel) and when the hill went down, you moved the chain up to the 48 tooth outer ring. You pedaled as long as you could and then you coasted/tucked into an aero position. Simple right?

1x systems came into being in the MTB world - Simplicity they said! No more dropped chains or busted chains from shifting under huge strains! Lighter overall weight! I just don't see it being useful in a touring/city world, in spite of the efforts of the big component companies to promote 1x systems for road/touring use. When it comes to 1x systems, I just see a system that replaces weight on one end - the crank, with more weight in the rear - a huge cassette.

For reference, those huge 12-46 T cassettes weigh 498 gr on my scale. A 12-36 cassette I would run - 408 gr. My triple set up here is 90 grams lighter.




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Lubricant to Live By

 By Scott


For years, my regular Sunday afternoon chore/regular maintenance list item was to clean and re-lube the chains of our home's fleet of bikes. We were daily commuters in addition to riding brevets, so I tried to be very diligent about prolonging the life of our chains. I'd take the bikes from our apartment down to the garage area with my little kit of degreaser, rags, and lube. Riding year around, through Vancouver's wet winters, meant I had to keep on top of the chains to avoid them getting too gunked up from all the debris on the roads we rode on.

So, while I'm not a chemist (my wife has a BSC in chemistry, so that sort of counts right?) chain lube is something that I've paid attention to over the years. I'm not as fastidious as some people I've known over the years (one guy I worked with in Vancouver took the chain off the bike, soaked it in degreaser, cleaned each link and reinstalled it EVERY weekend), I'm very much the "clean off the previous application of oil and everything it's picked up over the past XX period of time and apply new oil" kinda of person. 

As a randonneur and cycle-tourist, the key point about chain lube for me is longevity of an oil. There is nothing worse then having a chain go all squeaky and crunchy part way through a long brevet or having to try to find some oil tins (do they still make tins or is it all plastic now?) in the garbage at a service station to try and lube a chain while on tour. So over the years, I've tried a lot of chain lubes. Some are too thick and tend to pick up a lot of dirt and such over time and are a bit tough to try and clean off, especially by the degreaser and rag method I use. Some other lubes, so called "dry lubes" which promised less pick up of dirt, tended to get washed off, especially when I relocated to DC and biked in our summer monsoons.

All this brings me around to the latest addition to VO's catalog - NixFrixShun Chain Lube. Josh who makes this (a local MD fellow) is a long time rider and he gets what a chain lube needs to be - particularly for those who go long. His product got great reviews a few years back in Cycling Tips deep dive into chain lubes. We got some samples at the Philly Bike Expo and we really loved this stuff. It holds held up really well to all sorts of riding and we're pleased to have them in stock.





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Out of the Shed and Onto the Road - Assessing Your Bike's Needs

by Igor

There's no doubt we're in the midst of a bike boom. Hopefully the increase in ridership and interest in the sport will help move a lot more money and infrastructure designs towards sustainable and safe riding around the US. And while new bikes are harder to find because they've simply been bought up, the used bike market is very healthy. And with that, we've seen maintenance and repair items absolutely flying off the shelves at VO HQ. So whether you're pulling your bike out of the shed, refurbishing a friend's bike, or just picking up a used ride, here's a guide you can refer to when evaluating what it needs.

Ocular pat-down of the bike

Is it covered in spider webs, is the the chain rusted, are the tires flat, are there any obviously missing parts? These are basic things you want to be looking for as the bike sits in front of you.


Look over the frame for any dings, dents, scratches, cracks, or bends. Look at the fork from the side and make sure it isn't bent from an impact or crash. Tubes very rarely break in the middle, so wipe off dust or grime at junction points to get a good view.

The wheels should be straight in the dropouts and inline with the middle of the frame and fork. If the wheel isn't straight relative to the frame, make sure it is straight in the dropouts and re-check. If it still isn't straight, either the frame or fork is bent or mis-aligned.

Condition of wheels

Pull the rim/tire lightly from side to side. You're looking for any play in the hub bearings. If the hub bearings are within tolerance, they shouldn't move. If you feel a click or klunk, the hubs need to be adjusted or re-built.

Spin the wheels and look at the rim in relation to the brake pads (for rim brakes) or fork blades/chainstay blades for disc brakes. The rims should be true without wobbles or bulges in the rim surface.

For rim brake bikes, look at the rim surface. The braking surface should be smooth and not overly concave. There is some tolerance, so consult the rim manufacturer for wear tolerance information. It is important to monitor your rim's wear because the rim bead could let go, causing a very dangerous situation. You'll need to rebuild the wheel with new rims if the rim surface is too concave. You can check by putting a straight edge against the rim and seeing how worn it is.

photo from https://www.cyclingabout.com/

Tires


Are the tires flat? Could need new tubes or rim tape - you won't know until un-mounting the tire and doing an inspection. Try inflating the tubes and seeing if they hold air. Tubes can loose air over time, so a flat tire can be due to a puncture or it could just be due to time.

Check the overall condition of the tires. Check for abrasions, dry rot, lumps, and debris. Be careful spinning the tires and placing your hand on it. I've gotten cut by an errant staple in the tread, when spinning a tire to inspect it.

Brakes

For rim brakes, check to see if the pads have equal distance to the rim. Squeeze the respective brake lever a couple times to make sure they haven't been knocked about and re-evaluate.

Here's a neat trick that our friend Tommy of Cutlass Velo sent over for aligning disc brake pads. Open up an image of a white screen on your cell phone, place it on the ground, and look at the pads in relation to the rotor. Refer to your brake's manufacturer recommendations regarding pad distance from rotor.

See how worn the brake pads are. That is, how much life in left in them. Pads that haven't been adjusted for wear often create a little ledge and will need to be replaced.

Dig your fingernail into the pad and to see what condition the pads are in. If it feels fairly pliable and soft they are good to be adjusted and re-used. If they feel rock hard, replace them. When in doubt, replace your brake pads.

Disc brakes are a bit harder to diagnose as they are harder to see within. A flashlight would be helpful to see within the caliper. If the bike has hydraulic brakes, check the junction points at the lever and brake caliper for any leaks. Here's a picture of a fresh vs worn disc brake pad.

photo from www.totalwomenscycling.com

Now give each brake lever a squeeze and try pushing the bike forward. Obviously if the brake works, it will be difficult to push the bike forward. If the bike has disc brakes and can be moved easily, then something is very wrong. The pads and rotors could be contaminated with grease or oil, or there is a leak in the hydraulic hosing, the cable/housing needs to be replaced, or the caliper needs to be re-built or replaced. Either way, it will need to be diagnosed when it's in the stand and disassembled.

While you're grabbing the brake levers, let's check the.......

Headset

Grab the front brake lever and rock the bike forwards and back. If the headset moves, it will need to be adjusted or rebuilt (depending on how it is made). Some disc brake pads move within the caliper (which is normal). You might need to turn the handlebars 90 degrees (wheel to the side) to isolate the headset from the brakes.

Drivetrain

First, check the chain for rust, stiff links, gunk, and correct length. You probably don't have a chain measuring tool at home, but if the rest of the drivetrain looks to be in decent shape, you can probably roll with it.

Inspect the crankset for shark-tooth teeth, missing or damaged teeth, and general condition of the crankarms. Scuffs from shoe rub are pretty normal, but wear shouldn't go beyond cosmetic. 


Grasp the crankarm and pull it back and forth to check for bottom bracket play. If you feel any knocking or looseness, the bottom bracket will likely need to be rebuilt or replaced. Depending on your mechanical comfort level, you can also spin the crankset backwards to confirm the spindle is straight and the spider is true. Spin the pedals, too to see their condition.

Let's look at the derailleurs. Check the front to make sure it isn't bent, worn through, or rusted. Push the cage in and out to make sure it moves.
For the rear derailleur, look at it from the back of the bike. It should be straight and not bent in either direction. If it is bent, the frame's hanger or the cage could be bent from an impact. Check the derailleur for scuffs, scratches, or damage. How are the jockey wheels? Gross? Shark-toothed?


Check both the front and rear derailleur for smooth operation. This is best done in a bike stand, but in a pinch you can hang the bike from a tree branch, a broomstick between two chairs, or some other creative perch. Turn the crank as you shift through the gears. The chain should move freely from one gear to the next. You'll also want to make sure the chain does not drop off the cassette or chainrings at the highest and lowest gears. 

Lastly, let's check the cassette or freewheel. Grab a rag or glove for this one. Grab the lowest gear with your index finger and thumb and move it towards and way from you. It's shouldn't move. If it moves, the cassette either needs to be tightened or the freehub body needs to be replaced or re-built.

Cables or housing

Housing should be in tact without corrosion or cracks. Check the cable ends for fraying or damaged strands. 


For hydraulic disc brakes, check the ends of the hydraulic hosing for leaks or kinks.

Handlebars

Check the handlebar tape and grips for any signs of impacts or scuffs that may signify a crash. Very old aluminum alloy bars should be replaced. Carbon bars that have been crashed should be replaced. 


Make sure they generally aren't bent and/or corroded.

For drop bars, peel back the hood covers a bit. If there is a lot of chalky powder, it is corrosion. Someone likely sweat a lot and the bars could be in really bad shape under the wrap. Bikes that live on the trainer generally fall prey to corrosion around the handlebars, headset, and fork due to perspiration and lack of fresh air. If I buy a used bike, I'm going to replace the handlebar tape/grips no matter what because people are gross. When you pull back the bar tape, you'll see what needs to be replaced.

Accessories

What accessories are mounted to the bike? Kickstands should deploy and retract with relative ease, and should not interfere with the operation of cranks. Fenders should be tight and free of debris. Bottle cages should be tight and not bent up (I've seen bottle cages get mangled because someone's pant leg got caught on it during riding). Bags should be secure and not hanging in the wheel.

While this list is by no-means complete, we hope this helps in a preliminary check of a bike you currently have or are looking to acquire. A well maintained bicycle is a good bicycle, no matter the brand or age.













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